Of the 40+ horses we have on our farm, a handful are well into their 30s. Good care enables old horses to live out their senior years happily and comfortably and, although credit must be given to genetics, it also likely extends their lives. We've had Thoroughbreds that lived into their late 30s and a pony that lived to be 47.

Here's some of the special care we provide to our seniors:

FREQUENT DENTAL CHECKS. Many senior horses require dental work more often than younger horses. It's good to have a veterinarian check teeth every six months to make sure there aren't any problems that cause difficulty eating. Teeth get lose and may need pulled; a tooth opposing the space where there's a missing tooth may need filed. Some horses develop a "wave" to their teeth that needs leveled. If you notice your old horse "quidding," which is leaving wet chunks of partially chewed hay on the ground, he's having trouble chewing.

The exact age that horses require more frequent dental checks varies. Talk with your vet to determine your horse's dental check schedule.

PROVIDE SENIOR FEED. It's easier for horses to chew and digest. There are several good brands on the market. We generally put aging horses on senior feed when we detect a decline in their condition. For some horses, this might be age 20, while others do well without senior feed until they are well into their 20s.

ALLOW PLENTY OF TIME TO EAT. It can take very old horses a long time to eat. Be sure to give them enough time to finish their food.

You will read that grazing is great for old horses because grass is easy for them to eat, and while this may be true for many horses, we've had a few very old equines that drop weight unless they are in their stalls long enough each day to eat their two or three meals, plus some hay.

WATCH WATER INTAKE. In our experience, older horses, particularly in winter, are poor water drinkers, which can predispose to colic.

If your old horse isn't drinking much, provide a heated water bucket during cold weather. To get more water into the horse, soak senior feed in hot water and serve when it's not too hot to eat but still warm. Not all horses will eat soaked food, but most will. Soaked feed is also a good solution for horses that have trouble chewing.

CHOOSE HAY CAREFULLY. Old horses may have trouble chewing stiff, yellow, first-cut Timothy. We buy green grass hay, preferably second cut, which is soft and easier for old horses to eat. If your horse seems to have trouble eating any type of hay, try one of the bagged forages, such as chopped hay, that are now widely available.

SHEET AND BLANKET IN COLD WEATHER. We've had horses that were never blanketed but when they got old, would shiver when the temperatures dropped. Generally, we start using sheets when the temperature drops into the mid to low 30s, then blankets when it gets into the 20s and teens. Once we've started using blankets or sheets for the winter, we continue until spring.

Consider the wind-chill factor when checking temperatures. If the predicted temperature is 45 but the winds will be high, it's going to feel a lot colder. There are online weather services that provide the "real-feel" temperature.

Feel your old horse under the sheet or blanket to see if he's warm enough. He should not feel hot or on the verge of sweating; he should feel just barely warm.

All our horses are brought into the barn during inclement weather, but we're quicker to bring in aged horses. They need more protection from the elements (hot and cold weather) than younger horses.

KEEP UP PREVENTIVE VETERINARY CARE. Contrary to common belief, immunity does not necessarily improve as horses age; instead it can wane. Old horses need routine immunizations as well as regular worming and hoof trims.

HARD KEEPERS. Some old horses have trouble maintaining weight. Have those teeth checked. Next think worms, even if your horse has been on a routine worming program. Ask your veterinarian about testing for worms and about using a "PowerPac" or another wormer that tackles encysted small strongyles, which most of the wormers we horse owners use do not kill. We also request a routine check-up and blood work to help rule out medical problems.

The Thoroughbred, right, below, lived to be 37.

Once teeth, worms and medical problems are ruled out, a dietary change may be needed. Try feeding small meals of senior feed more frequently. If your horse has been getting two meals daily, try three instead. The amount of senior feed may need to be increased substantially (though gradually)

We've had several old horses that started refusing their feed and the problem wasn't the feed, but the supplement (s) added to the feed. Once we withheld the supplement, they started eating again. In other cases, we've had to switch the brand of senior used.

We've had great success keeping weight on old horses by feeding a product called hay stretcher in addition to senior feed. Blue Seal has one version and Southern States has another sold under the Reliance brand. It's a high fiber, low carb, pelleted feed. We've never had a horse refuse this feed and they seem to have no trouble chewing it. It's also has a low fat content but nevertheless, seems to help maintain the older equines.

Another product we started using recently that seems to put weight on nicely is Legend Pelletted Rice Bran by Southern States. It has 18% crude fat. Most horses seem to like it; we've got one off-the-track Thoroughbred that doesn't.

Another option is the high-fat supplement Ultimate Finish, which is about 25% fat.

Corn oil is still used by a lot of horse owners and is thought to put on weight, but we haven't had much success with it and find it gets rank too easily in hot weather.

REST. Old horses often develop musculoskeletal problems that make it difficult for them to lie down and get up, which can lead to sleep deprivation. Horses need to lie down to achieve the stage of sleep that's truly restful. Sometimes the remedy for a sleep-deprived horse is a bigger stall, where there's more room to maneuver.

You might also ask your vet about trying an anti-inflammatory medication to see if it helps. Give it a long enough try; horses come to associate getting down and up with discomfort; it can take a while for them to form new associations and to realize they can maneuver without pain.

In other cases, a particularly problem joint might need to be injected by your veterinarian for pain relief.

Some of our old horses also get too tired if they are out 24/7; even though we strive to keep horses outside whenever possible because it reduces the risk for colic, we keep a few of the old horses in their stalls part of the day since they seem to get less tired.